Sit them back in their respective holes in the bracket once it's removed to avoid confusion when re-assembling. Working from the front of the car again, undo the three 12mm bolts holding the electrical connectors and bracket. On the same side as above, remove the two 12mm bolts from the manifold bracket and the two 12mm bolts holding the hot air intake - this has a gasket that usually falls down when the bolts are undone so be careful! (Yeah, ok, I'm not sure where this last one goes to!) Working on the left side of the manifold, remove the brake booster vacuum supply, 10mm bolt holding another earth strap, the charcoal canister vacuum hose and the vacuum hose at the rear of the manifold. Remove the PCV hose from the manifold at this time also. There is also two 12mm bolts holding the fuel supply and return lines to the manifold that have to be removed. With a bit of manouvering the coils can be moved enough not to cause any problems with the leads still attached. My advice is to remove the 10mm bolts holding them down but do not remove the plug leads unless you absolutely have to. One thing to remember here is that when re-assembling, the wires for these two connectors go under the black bracket in the second picture up.
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the two connectors to the intake manifold. Remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and remove the 10mm bolt holding the electrical connection and harness bracket - this allows access to the first plug lead. Remove the four 12mm bolts holding the bracket in place and remove the plug leads from their holder. This is self explanatory, if it's plugged in and in the way - unplug it! Once you have all connections and harness mounts undone move the harness out of the way. Now to remove the wiring harness that comes across the manifold. Take a note of which way the gasket sits between the two and do not remove the two coollant hoses from the bottom of the throttle body, there is enough slack in them to simply move the tb to the side out of the way. Number and remove the three vacuum hoses on the top of the tb, remove the 10mm bolt holding the throttle cable and earth strap, loosen the two 12mm nuts holding the throttle cable to it's mount and remove the cable from the tb, remove the electrical connector from the air bypass at the bottom of the tb, and then remove the four 12mm bolts holding the tb to the intake manifold. Release the four clips around the air filter housing, release the throttle cable from the intake, remove the electrical connector from the air flow meter, remove the PCV hose from the intake and undo the clamp around the throttle body. The first step is to remove the air intake.
You don't want to find out later that you don't know which lead goes to which coil. If you find it necessary to remove any of the leads from the coils be sure to mark them clearly, both on the lead and it's coil.A foot-long length of hose that fits over the porcelain section of the spark plug is useful for extracting the plugs once you have them loose.No more trying to guess which bolt went where! Because we are dealing with a lot of bolts this will make the re-assembly so much easier. When you remove a component sit the bolts back into the holes where they came from.A smear of anti-sieze compound or even a smear of engine oil on the spark plug threads will prevent the new plugs from binding up in the alloy heads and make removal easier next time.Try twisting the leads first, a little each way until they come loose and then pull them out. The spark plug leads will be quite difficult to remove.Your parts supplier should be able to set you up with the right plugs. Yeah they cost a bit more but you do not want to be doing this job every 20,000km or so.
OK, dust off the tools and let's get down to it. I had actually got halfway through this job before growing a brain and realising that this information might be useful to our readers so I'm all the steps in reverse so please don't shoot me if there is anything I have left out! I will try my best to cover everything. There are a few precautions that you need to be aware of, nothing too drastic just little things that will make the job easier for you and they are outlined below. Allow yourself plenty of time though, quite a few hours will be needed to finish the job. It is a reasonably straight forward job to do and can be done with a basic spanner, screwdriver and socket set. Pictures speak a thousand words.Ĭhanging Spark Plugs - Mitsubishi 3.0 V6 24valve �If your late model Pajero, Challenger or Magna is due for it's 100 or 200,000km service it is possible to save yourself quite a bit of dough by replacing the spark plugs yourself. Nice works and explains the steps involved quite nicely.
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